Kevin Vallely’s 500-km Arctic expedition reveals the wild beauty and danger of Canada’s remote north. Wolves, frostbite, and awe in the land of extremes.
“It felt like stepping onto another planet,” says Kevin Vallely, describing Canada’s Ellesmere Island — a place so remote and untraveled, it might as well be Mars.
At 60, the North Vancouver-based architect and seasoned adventurer completed one of his most ambitious expeditions yet: skiing 500 kilometres across the icy terrain of Ellesmere, one of Canada’s northernmost and least-known territories.
A Dream Forged in Ice and Determination
Vallely, a Fellow of the Royal Canadian Geographical Society, is no stranger to extremes. He’s journeyed through the South Pole and Siberia, but the call of the Arctic remained strong.
“You can’t go any further north than the tip of Ellesmere. Beyond that, it’s just sea ice and the North Pole,” he shared.
After an initial failed attempt, he and endurance athlete Ray Zahab launched a second effort in March, aiming to traverse the island from a remote weather station to its only settlement, Grise Fiord.
The Hunt for the ‘Ghosts of the Arctic’
Their goal wasn’t just survival — it was wildlife.
“There are only about 200 Arctic wolves on Ellesmere. We wanted to find them in their natural habitat,” Vallely said.
The elusive creatures, nicknamed the “ghosts of the Arctic,” didn’t disappoint. Over 28 days, dozens of wolves approached their camps. Vallely vividly recalls a moment when a single wolf took down an 800-pound muskox alone — a chilling reminder of nature’s raw power.
Life in Minus 70: Every Second Matters
Each day brought brutal challenges. The duo skied eight hours daily, hauling sleds with essential supplies. Wind chills plummeted to -70°C.
“You hear about frostbite in minutes. There, it’s seconds,” Vallely emphasized. “You’re always alert. Always layered. Always moving.”
Even polar bear tracks nearby kept them on edge — a haunting presence, even if not seen.
Arrival in Grise Fiord: Awe at the Edge of the World
Reaching the village of Grise Fiord (population: 140) wasn’t just a physical relief — it was deeply emotional.
“You just feel this well of emotion. You’ve arrived. And you’ve overcome so much to get there,” Vallely said.
Standing in the immensity of the Arctic, he was struck by its scale and silence — and by how little most Canadians know of it.
Why Canadians Should Head North
Vallely hopes his story encourages others to explore Canada’s Arctic — responsibly and with curiosity.
“There’s immense value in our North — culturally, environmentally, geopolitically,” he said. “You don’t need to be extreme. Just go a little beyond your comfort zone and look north.”
Final Thought
For Kevin Vallely, Ellesmere Island wasn’t just another expedition. It was a stark, stunning reminder of Canada’s untamed northern soul — vast, wild, and profoundly humbling.
